NEWSLETTER NUMBER 179
2 June 2013
Sehlabathebe Lodge
Sehlabathebe National Park
Lesotho
Drakensberg/Maluti Mountains
17 – 19 May 2013
We left in rain on Friday morning, however at Underberg the weather showed promises of change for the better. The border crossing was done in overcast weather, and as we carried our packs and food down to meet the mules across the river , we were wishing for a lifting of the clouds as high above some blue sky was visible. Once the heavy stuff was loaded on the mules we set off on our way to the Lodge.
The low lying areas were cool and a bit overcast, then as we started to climb, wisps of mist started to swirl overhead. An early lunch was called for as we had started early that morning, and as we sat and had our lunch in very cool conditions, out of nowhere a heavy blanket of mist enveloped us in a thick mist blanket. From here on we walked in this heavy mist blanket, with a minimal of visibility. For someone who did not know the area, it would have been a massive challenge to find their way forward. Tracks ran here and there, in places the path disappeared all together in the thick grass, map reading would have been out of the question as there was no way to see where you were , or where you wanted to go to. So local knowledge, was the need of the hour. Eventually, after some very anxious times trying to see figure out where we were in relation to the lodge. Loud thunder crashes were all around us, and due to the thick mist we could not see the lightning. Then out of the mist loomed a shadowy figure of a willow tree, we now knew where we were, the lodge was just up ahead. As we did the final approach to the lodge a very heavy hail storm of small hail crashed down on to us. A mad scramble, and we were in the lodge. Just as suddenly as the hail had come it stopped, and magically the hail seemed to have sucked the mist out of the air, the view all around us, opened up.
Rooms were allocated, Lives were sorted. A great fire in the lounge, hot baths, hot chocolate, tea, biscuits – and we were soon right as rain. Supper was a lovely warm, comfortable, cozy affair, and soon all were ready for bed.
A dramatic first day, in one way and another.
The area around the lodge lies within the Sehlabathebe National Park. The main backdrop of the Maluti Mountains to the lodge are know collectively as the “Devil’s Knuckles”, or the “3 Bushmen” , and to the north and east of the lodge are a fantastic collection of Sandstone rocks, pools, tarns, caves that offer incredible scenery. In the long past, mountain shepherds survived in these rocky areas by building walls in rock caves and recesses, as well as walls to contain their flocks at night. The early sunrise brushes the mountain and sandstone rock formations in a beautiful orange glow, well worth an early morning wake up in a very cold and misty mountain sunrise. If you are there in the wet period, numerous tarns offer beautiful reflective pools, grasses, flowers, sedges and an incredible array of sights and feelings.
After the early morning greeting of the sunrise and an incredible photography session, we headed back to the lodge for breakfast. Then from breakfast, we headed out to explore every nook and cranny in the surrounding rocks. A really great morning to just relax, enjoy and explore.
Then back to the lodge for lunch, a few minutes “lie down”, then back to the as yet un-explored area.
Rock pools had water plants growing out of the sand bottoms while they had water in, in winter these pools and tarns would be dry, and the plants would die, only to revive at the next rains.
Caves, pools, rocks, rock climbing, distant views from the high ground, and even meeting the shadowy figures of the past inhabitants, all added to a great day in this fantastic area. As the sun dropped it was time to head back to the lodge.
Next morning we were greeted by another great sunrise, breakfasted, then it was time to pack and head for home The weather was beautiful , and we did another route home, past Tarn Cave and down to Cedric’s Pools for lunch
Cedric’s pools are a great place to swim , if you can take the cold water at this time of year. We had some brave hikers who dared take the plunge, had lunch and took the last path home. Cedric’s also offers one the last look at the Devil’s Knuckles, so far away on the horizon, yet such a wonderful place to spend time.
Thanks to Greg for all his organization and planning, to the ladies for the superb food, to the Dad’s for carrying heavy loads, and to the girl’s who did so well in all the weather conditions, and for being so excited during our whole day of exploring the area.
A really great 3 days.
For more on this area see my Newsletters 155, and 161
AND ABOVE ALL - take every care NOT to start a grass fire !!!
If anyone is interested in a hike planned especially for you, feel free to contact me
